It is April in the midst of autumn in Melbourne. Yellow leaves have fallen and they are visible blowing across the grass. The pavement is still wet from the previous night’s rain and the early morning sun glares off the Yarra River. Southerly winds are beginning to pinch. Melbourne is a beautiful city and for now it is what I call home, yet I still need to escape.

A two-hour drive from home is my coastal wonderland. Even on the coldest days I feel warm here and even on the darkest nights my soul is cleansed. It is a place of rolling hills, flowing waterfalls and sprays of sea salt.

Autumn, in all it’s gold is a great time for surfers here. Year round, the beach is not crowded. The summer is warm, but the ocean is still chilly and most of the year surfers are cloaked in neoprene.

As…